ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustmentdish scapes december 2020

ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment

Call 1-888-567-0015 Facebook Like this: Remove the PTO shaft. To raise the plow pull touch control all the way up to raise the plow. The NH-410B is the current New Holland Agriculture OEM specification that is equivalent to Ford ESN-M2C-134D. } Regardless of the position of my quadrant support plate, I cannot get the valve completely open as directed in step 7a. Reinstalling a cleaned, replacement, or rebuilt pump can be tricky. The pump piston pushes the oil out then pulls it back in as it returns. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. "height": 57 I am new to mechanical work and really want to learn. Thus, I removed the hydraulic control unit to adjust it. First, it causes rust and corrosion. "name": "Yesterday's Tractor Co.", plow should lift at the top of the quad in draft contorl.. if it won't.. it needs adjustment. }, Just give them a ring to get started. The control lever and quadrant moves the valve spools on the pump to control the lift. Free shipping . This means it works better as a year-round fluid. Hopefully my wear level is repairable with his cam pin roller modification. Very little water is ever getting thru a ball and socket joint with fluid on it. If it won't go easy, stop and figure out why. If after installed I need further adjustment I'll use the split washer trick. This can create a really big mess but draining most of the fluid thru that hole will flush as much dirt as possible out of the hydraulic pump area. Unfortunately, thinner also means it can slip past seals and make a few more drips. A really hard freeze could actually crack something. "@type": "Organization", If this is a 9N or 2N we have to first disconnect the touch control linkage or risk breaking the valve assembly. Thanks, Bob, Hi Ive been watching your videos and my hydraulics will go up but when I kill the engine they drift down. Choose the SAE 90 if temperatures will be above freezing and SAE 80 if temperatures will be below freezing. 75 Tips I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. I have an older Ford 8 N. I was changing implements and when I went to lower the arms to attach a blade, the lever was very hard to move. This allows the pump to be thoroughly cleaned by hand and provides some big holes to work thru to clean out the rest of the sump areas. That is not true for any of the ford tractors I have. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. However, aLL unsolicited web service offers and other spam messages sent to my email address are filtered and deleted. If it seems like your hydraulics just arent doing anything, be sure to check that the PTO lever is engaged and then try. It may not display this or other websites correctly. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! Remove the right inspection plate that has the hydraulic dip-stick. He ships the jig with documentation that has helpful hints about things to check that the manual doesn't talk about that'd keep one from getting the proper adjustment. There was a slight "curve" to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , "what the heck". I cant seem to find if this is one solid tube? Regardless of the position of my quadrant support plate, I cannot get the valve completely open as directed in step 7a. It is critical. How does water get inside the sump? I'm new to this forum stuff. When I was plowing in the spring, when the arms were actually as low as it would go and the tractor would start to loose traction, a slight lift of the position lever would bring the plow up, but then I would have to push down on the draft control lever to get the plow to go higher. Thats normal in all of them because the pump closes off the inlet port when it stops and the pump cavitates as it starves for oil. "height": 57 Pic attached. Disassemble the control linkage until you can get the part with the worn pin out of there. Is my problem in the relief valve? }, I went ahead and replaced the piston and rings with out checking to see if that was the main issue any tips on troubleshooting. I have watched you rebuild video twice and find it would be a great help if I needed to rebuild. May have nothing to do with my issues but seems dumb to leave it like that. I can remove the cover and post a pic if it will help. If my brother-in-law has any luck with that I'll use your suggestion on cutting the arm ram off. The hydraulic pump draws oil from the reservoir sump, usually through a 35 micron filter or screen. See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. Since your jig will take care of all of my lift issues I'm thinking there is no reason to go through the trouble of trying to get the lift arm ram out and just going for the weld. $14.99 . Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. My lift drifts down when the pto stops.. In cold climates the water can freeze and break the chambers in the pump. (800) 853-2651Shop Now TRACTOR PARTS Allis Chalmers Case & David Brown Farmall & International Ferguson Ford & New Holland John Deere It is hard, but not impossible, to do both with only one pair of hands. Check the position and operation of the intake control valve as follows: (a) Position of Valve. Is the something else I should change to get the valve to completely open? } The position control pin and the control arm were both bent. and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. While reinstalling saw this significant crack in the lift ram arm. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. JavaScript is disabled. "width": 200, It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. The main reason we replace the fluid is the amount of water that eventually has mixed with it. (Long)", After everything is adjusted should there be some pressure on the control lever? To find this position, slightly loosen the four cap screws that support the quadrant. Other than that I just dress the gravel drive a few times. Another question if I may. Includes left and right anchors.OEM #: 957E596, 957E597.Applic.. $14.36 $15.69 Spring, Hydraulic Control - 9N547B 17). We keep the brush down in the woods. All Tradenames and Trademarks referred to on these web pages are the property of their respective trademark holders. Get to the tough questions and you go all shy on me? Almost like the pin wore down the cam rather than the pin being worn. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. In any case, dont forget about fresh oil! He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. Also, the draft sensing spring seat can be deformed by the implement bouncing up and down during transport over rough terrain. }. I'm a little confused on the weld issue. It will only raise the plow with touch all the way up. "height": 57 Its also highly recommended that you change the hydraulic oil (gear oil) and keep it fresh and clean at all times. Dec 17, 2013. rmissildine said: Hello all. Good to know this is how it's supposed to work. Zane Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. I did take a look at it before I put it back together. The N tractors originally had a piston with 3 cast iron rings to seal it. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. If the hydraulics either go all the way up or all the way down (with no control in the middle), the problem is likely with your pivot pins. }, Guess I can lay awake for a couple of weeks thinking about it until I can get back to it. He ships the jig with documentation that has helpful hints about things to check that the manual doesn't talk about that'd keep one from getting the proper adjustment. May be where I end up depending on what Zane says. Thanks. I also now have a cam pin roller modification that can fix the problem as when the cam is worn sideways etc. b. Never plow, etc. The rest of that space is air and metal. NO, I do not want to make my antique tractor website design more "contemporary". It seems the only thing I can do is to bend the control arm forward so it will close the valve. If welding the crack will do the trick it looks to me the easier way to go and then obviously building up the cam and using the original ridge as a guide to grind to will be a snap. Mar 12, 2013. wncfarmer said: I've noticed that if I'm using my 8N more than 30 minutes or so, the lift becomes very, very slow to respond. I used to start with the small pipe plug at the back. $97.57 $101.10 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain - 957E5967 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain. Now it is only used about 10 Hours a year. I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. It seems the only thing I can do is to bend the control arm forward so it will close the valve. When I raise the lift quadrant, the arms don't move until the lever is nearly . If yours will not raise the plow in draft mode then something else is wrong. Should the cam be smooth across its width? Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see OK,OK step one first. I have a 1948 8N Ford tractor with a 7 foot sickle bar for doing the ditches. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just removed and straightened the control rod. When changing the fluid, try to flush as much of the sludge as possible out with the old fluid. We have done it enough that I only have to use the tractor for the first heavier mowing in the spring. Loosen the 4 bolts holding the quadrant control lever bracket to the top cover. Wear them enough and you forget you have them on. So, how's the weather? I dropped the belly pump and removed the hydraulic top cover. Thanks guys - this is exactly how it works. How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? Extending or neglecting to do fluid changes only guarantees that there will be problems. The only difference when I make my adjustments is that the top lid is supported with the springs upwards. So, you guilted me into starting with step one. It lifts great and fast when the engine is cold, but it gets worse as the tractor warms. Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. Wrong? I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. My cam is not worn anywhere close to the pic that Bruce posted. And does it come out from the top or bottom?? Are you having trouble with your Ford 8N hydraulics? Flattened it no problem. Thanks for te help. "width": 200, Using the block of wood it is possible to disconnect and reconnect the 9N linkage with one hand. I'm new to this forum stuff. 4 - Do you leave your tractor parked outside? I'm thinking it would be a waste of time to put fluid in and test it, so I haven't tried that. Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. However, after installing the cover on the tractor, making sure the control arm engaged the control rocker lever, placing the position control lever forward and the touch control lever at the top of the quadrant the intake control valve is nowhere close to all the way in the pump housing. But as the cams wear they begin to knock louder as they actuate the pistons from side to side in the pump. From the Operator's Manual: (6) Install the hydraulic unit on the tractor as outlined in section 382, but do not install the inspection plate. Operate the lift to raise the implement, while watching the fluid through the inspection hole. To find this position, slightly loosen the four cap screws that support the quadrant. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. ", A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. Little heat and came off pretty easily. I'll send an e-mail to your site. I did take a look at it before I put it back together. Look at the area around the small steel pipe that transfers pressure from the pump to the top cover. "dateModified": "2015-06-09", When we cleared an acre 30 years ago the tractor got a majority of its work dragging logs. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for HYDRAULIC TRANSPORT VALVE LOCK FIT FOR MASSEY TAFE ALL MODEL TRACTORS at the best online prices at eBay! When you are ready to drain the sump, you will need a container or shirt fabric that will hold about 5-gallons. Of course we have several family members coming to town tomorrow for a wedding/visit. Straightening and repairing the lift arms and other hardware is mostly just time and energy. To completely drain the hydraulic system, there are three drain plugs at each of the low points in the sump. There are two piston assemblies that should move at the same time, and in opposite directions. Nov 11, 2020 / 3 Point Lift Lever "stop?" #9 Tinhack It appears you have just learned this to be true! https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS097-bolster-pivot-pin. (Long) in the Tractors forum followed by comments. Always consult equipment operator's manual and follow safety instructions before operating or servicing any tractor or equipment, or attempting any task. The worst spot for that is the drain plug where the pump is. 2009-10-02 166108. The crack has nothing to do with the lift performance at this time. (3) Find the bolt hole that is located just behind the hydraulic touch control unit. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. If its knocking loudly you should buy a pump repair kit and do a rebuild before it quits all together. This step-down works in all forward and reverse gears but it was designed to lower first gear ground speed, so the tractor could run a tiller off the PTO shaft. My lift went up but now it wont go down.. That usually works ok if you cant spare the two bucks for a new one). If no major leakage is noted, then check the pump pressure as outlined in the FO-4 manual. It is impossible to adjust the 8N lift with the instructions in most manuals. "interactionStatistic": { John Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. Not like position control mode where partial movement of the touch control partially raises the arms. "@context":"https://schema.org", John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. You obviously know a lot more about welding than I do. Ice could block passages that allow oil to get into the pump. Movement of the control valve arm should begin at the start of movement of the hydraulic touch control lever. This provides a much more positive seal to eliminate the small leakage from the cast iron rings. Rebuild kits can be purchased in various stages depending on what needs to be rebuilt. http://www.bramblett.com/zane/ ZANE If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! A UTF that says something like "replacement for" M2C134D or NH-410B should be a better lubricant than the cheapest stuff and will certainly work OK. Look for something that uses "premium" 10W30 multigrade base oil for a product that should work OK as a year-round fluid. It has a tendency to accumulate moisture from condensation inside the gear cases and the water collects in the bottom of the sump where it is drawn directly into the hydraulic pump. This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. The crack has nothing to do with the lift performance at this time. I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. It also depends on how much weight you have on the front end. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. window.dataLayer = window.dataLayer || []; function gtag(){dataLayer.push(arguments);} gtag('js', new Date()); gtag('config', 'G-04SJ2KTSCK',{ cookie_flags: 'max-age=7200;secure;samesite=none' }); Welcome! My Pa's 8N had those for both the lower stop and the upper stop. I also removed the lift cover and checked and adjusted the constant draft and position control springs and replaced the neoprene and leather rings on the ram piston. Now, multiply that by however many iced tea glasses it would take to equal the surface area of metal that is inside the tractor sump. Really not sure what is the best way to go on that. Pic attached. So, is it wear or suppose to have concave groove to rest on the dowell? It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. Looking at the condition of the fluid when checking the level can help indicate when the fluid should be changed. Simple to make from the hardware store. Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. The Operator's manual says to change the fluid every 600 hours. Dirt and other contaminants collect in the fluid and there is no filtration to remove them. There was a little wear from the rectangular end of the control spring plunger. Of course, once you diagnose the problem you still need to fix it! Turn off the engine and remove the right side access cover (the one with the dipstick) and slide your hand down along the control rod into the oil and feel the end of the rod where it goes into the control valve pivot. Still, that is just native grass and weeds. It's like a 10-30 multigrade motor oil thickness. Really not sure what is the best way to go on that. If necessary, make a new mark that corresponds to the correct level. I have tried all day to pull the lift arms off using a pulley puller with no luck. This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. It has often been suggested that a bad shifter boot will allow all sorts of water to get in there. That adjustment would work on a lift that was prestine but it ain't! ditto that. Other than that I just dress the gravel drive a few times. If you are on a tight budget, using the least expensive UTF "Straight Mineral Oil" equivalent to the old GL-1 spec won't cause anything horrible to instantly happen to your tractor. My pic is attached. Condition: Of course we have several family members coming to town tomorrow for a wedding/visit. I also checked the length of the constant draft control spring, and adjusted the position control spring to the specified 1 29/32 inches. When it breaks free and starts working again, CHANGE THE OIL. Make a Should the cam be smooth across its width? Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see If I could not add metal to build up the worn part of the cam I would install a longer pin and live with it . The scratches or grooves will chew into the new neoprene seal and it will leak worse than ever. I have the same problem. Of course we would recommend welding / brazing it or taking some where while it is apart . Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? Your email address will not be published. 2 - Did it freeze last night? On 8N tractors the ball on the linkage rod just pulls right out of the socket as the top cover or pump are removed. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. "userInteractionCount": 5 When we cleared an acre 30 years ago the tractor got a majority of its work dragging logs. Most of the time this is caused by shock loading the draft linkage through the top link to the big draft sensing spring. Thanks for you help!! "name": "Jasmith503" I thought I'd let him have a crack at removing the lift ram arm so I could replace it rather than getting the crack welded. See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. Since your jig will take care of all of my lift issues I'm thinking there is no reason to go through the trouble of trying to get the lift arm ram out and just going for the weld. Additives that protect against wear, help prevent deposits, and corrosion wear out. Unless you live in a very dry climate, humid air will get in the sump. No problems with cavitation for my live hydraulics external pumps. { (6) Install the hydraulic unit on the tractor as outlined in section 382, but do not install the inspection plate. It appears you have just learned this to be true! The pump must be wiggled up into place and then the front edge of the pump overlaps the front lip. 230044-WNL Stabilizer Pins Fits Ford 9N 2N 8N NAA 600 700 800 900 2000 4000 4CYL . You obviously know a lot more about welding than I do. You must log in or register to reply here. The scrap was cut to 0.375" x 0.75" x 3.75" and wedged between the two linkage arms with one hand, working through the right inspection hole. Any comments would be welcome. Our property is covered with Douglas Firs. I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. So, you guilted me into starting with step one. "@context":"https://schema.org", Figured that out after I sent the last message. Looking for some advise on an issue with Ford 800. The control lever and quadrant moves the valve spools on the pump to control the lift. Make an honest estimate of the hours your tractor is used each week. 3 - Is it below freezing now? If those didn't do the trick I would then go back to removing the yoke, etc. I guess I wasn't clear how futile my effort was to get the lift arm ram off. Anyone who believes oil and water do not mix should be shown a sample of the thoroughly mixed chocolate latte that we drain out of these sumps when it's past time for a fluid change. Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. There has got to be a better way. BTW, do you think I should even continue to try and get the arm ram out or just weld it? You can determine if the leakage is coming from the lift cylinder by removing the right side cover (the one with the dipstick) and starting the tractor. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. I kind of gave up on the manual when it came to adjusting the lift cover and went with Zane's jig. Control Arm Adjustment (1) Place the hydraulic control unit upside down. Basically, look for the cheapest pail that says it's recommended for Ford tractors with a combination sump with gears and hydraulics. Free shipping for many products! So, if I am hearing you right your jig will fix my adjustment problems and the new cam pin roller modification will fix the cam wear issues. While reinstalling saw this significant crack in the lift ram arm. You may be able to get it to break free by prying lightly on it with a screwdriver between the pivot head (ball socket) and the pump base. Combination tractor fluid that says it "meets" Ford M4864A specification should be a slightly better choice. With the early linkage you grab both pieces and stretch them into place. Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. "@type": "Person", Almost like the pin wore down the cam rather than the pin being worn. Maybe not true. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", If the cam follower pin is worn replace it. It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? The new Position Control setting bypassed the draft control and allowed the implement to remain at a consistent position relative to the position of the Touch Control lever.A continued drawback to this series of tractor, was the safety need for an overrunning clutch at the end of the PTO shaft.. Choke Control Rod Assembly.Ford - Fits: 2N, 9N; Replaces: 9N9700 * Fits (1939-47)* NOTE: this is 1 . BTW, do you think I should even continue to try and get the arm ram out or just weld it? Refer to section below regarding linkage. Hold the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant and gently tap the quadrant support plate forward or backward until both of the above requirements are fulfilled. "name": "Roger S" BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? Thanks for the suggestion. Before replacing the top cover, take the time to inspect everything else in there for wear or other problems. What youre hearing is the sound of cams/pistons in the pump banging together. Thus, I removed the hydraulic control unit to adjust it Welcome! Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. There is only one position in which the quadrant support plate can be located where both of the above conditions will be met. The louder the knock, the more wear your pump has on it. If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. If the cylinder bore is in good shape or has only very faint scratches or grooves use the NAA piston and seal. 2023 TractorByNet.com | TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners. I don't have a welder. (800) 853-2651Shop Now TRACTOR PARTS Allis Chalmers Case & David Brown I'll let you know how I do. Thought it might be an oil pressure issue. "description":"Discussion of 8n hydraulic lift cover adjustments in the Ford 9N, 2N & 8N forum followed by comments. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. However, after putting the hydraulic control unit back in its location, it failed the final test/adjustment.

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